Freemark Abbey, 2008, Chardonnay

Napa Valley, 14.1% ABV; $20

We all have off days. Menial tasks that usually occur with banal normality can overwhelm each and every one of us on these cursed days. Yesterday was such a day for me, at least concerning the deconstruction and identification of wine flavor profiles. Over the last 6 months I've been dedicated to expanding my palate. Drinking wine has become more like exercise than entertainment. With each enticing inhale and savoring sip I strive to identify more flavors and sensations. My olfactory bulbs are no longer passive observers when drinking wine but are trained muscles reflexively twitching at the sound of every cork popped like the legs of a runner anticipating the fire from the starting gun. My taste buds stand at the ready with every rigorous swirl like that of a Medieval infantryman about to do battle. I've trained my physiological tasting system through wine classes, diligently completing my homework and extra credit (i.e. drinking wine and more wine). I've even gone so far as to use a Neti-pot twice a week, a process that involves the rinsing of the sinuses with salt water, in order to improve my sniffing abilities. Yet despite all of this I totally botched this wine. And it's a shame compounded by the fact that this wine is awesome. Before I even get into the details (few and poor as they are) this wine rocked, plain and simple. I suppose that this initial diatribe is a disclaimer seeing as how if any of you purchase this wine (and you should) you'll probably be able to identify and enjoy the elements of this wine far quicker than i did. But nonetheless here were and are my initial reactions.

The color is a shimmering, light yellow like that of a dandelion only translucent. The nose is not very big but what does come across are aromas of stone fruits, some apple and butterscotch. The mouthfeel is heavy, something to be expected with an ABV of 14%. I'm convinced that this Chardonnay like most Californian wines of this grape varietal has undergone malolactic fermentation, a process whereby bacteria convert the natural malic acid into lactic acid (think lactose in milk and you'll understand the texture). "Definitely oak aged", I think to myself. Going into the second pour I'm feeling confident, borderline arrogant. More elements become obvious, as they usually do, and I begin to pick up some real parmesan cheese flavors, not the store brand powder nonsense. And now the moment of truth. I look to the vintner's description on the back label and I'm immediately hit with a contradiction - no malolactic fermentation. Ouch. The humbling description goes on to state that the wine was only partially aged in oak barrels. Ok, so I'm .5 out of 2, not exactly nailing this wine. But wait, aromas of butterscotch the vintner indicates. Success! Redemption! As I read on one flavor profile becomes immediately obvious and should have been apparent from the onset - bananas. But not just regular ripe bananas rather candied bananas, specifically those fruit candies that were in the shape of a the fruit their flavors represented. Overall, the acid and tannins are extremely well balanced (paradox?) with ripe fruit and a delightful viscosity, at least for those who enjoy a heavier white.

So while I'm not thrilled with my performance I am thrilled with this wine. There's so much overpriced and poor quality chardonnay and cabernet coming out of the mass producing wine marketeers of Napa, but this particular bottle is an exception. Try it and tell me what you think.